Volvo c304 electronic parking brake

One of the side effects of transforming the cab has been a lack of space to house a parking brake lever.  So looking about I’ve found an electronic one from a jag xf.  I’ve cut the end off the cable and swaged on a stainless mini fork.

Couple of brackets later and job done

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Tested using a few fuses and it looks like 7.5v is  the magic number.  Now off looking for 12v auto reset circuit breaker

 

 

  (1889)

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300tdi engine going into volvo c304

 

finally the engine gets placed
finally the engine gets placed
looks good.
looks good.

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the 50mm body lift enables the engine to fit.  Don’t think that the alternator would be removable otherwise

 

Engine mounts on.  Luckily I can reuse the old gearbox mounts
Engine mounts on. Luckily I can reuse the old gearbox mounts

 

Home made landrover crank tool.  Best price you'll find for a real one is £60.  But drill 5 holes in some 3 mm plate and you have your own
Home made landrover crank tool. Best price you’ll find for a real one is £60. But drill 5 holes in some 3 mm plate and you have your own
(1117)

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C303 Front brake overhaul

Having not dealt with drum brakes before this is all a bit new but how hard can it be?

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2 of 3/8 -24UNF bolts in the drum pull it off.  would have been good to slack of the pads first, but it works anyway.

Managed to lift the pads out off the cylinders which allowed me to get at  the smaller springs that go from pad to pad.  Recording here they go back in the middle hole.  With those off the larger springs become accessible, those that go from the hub to the pad.  Got them off too

Does anyone know what the breather pipe is for?  Seems pointless.

 

small pipe below the brake adjuster bolt
small pipe below the brake adjuster bolt

Now a quick wash

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Cleaned up, painted and 2 new brake cylinders installed
Cleaned up, painted and 2 new brake cylinders installed
Pads on.  The book only has the main spring, I had a second spring per pad.  Are they needed.  Hope not
Pads on. The book only has the main spring, I had a second spring per pad. Are they needed. Hope not
Brake drum gets a coat of copper grease on the rim.
Brake drum gets a coat of copper grease on the rim.

Brake drum on. Finished
Brake drum on. Finished
(5424)

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C303 cv boot

I’ve a few different sub projects on the go right now, not finishing any of them, but hey ho.

this one will document the swapping of the cv boot.

the axle is off the truck so access is easy.  I made an axle trolley by welding a couple of cheap bottle jack onto my broken engine crane stand.

trying to remove the bump stop plate was a pain.  As always 2 of the 3 fixings came out but there is always 1 that won’t.  That one had to be drilled out and re tapped.  Not sure what it was to start with, but now it’s m6

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next i have made a wheel carrier using some scrap iron and my engine stand.  then ran out of time.

wheel carrier stand
wheel carrier stand

2 guide pins created out of 1/2″ UNC bolts inserted

brake pipe connections removed and guide pins inserted
brake pipe connections removed and guide pins inserted

Wheel carrier removed

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CV boot teased out with a pry bar

OMG what is this crud in here
OMG what is this crud in here

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any clue what this is? looks like grease and mud

I’m guessing this should not be here.  Any clues how to clean this up?

Wiped out as much as i could then injected some new oil in to wash the rest off.  I was a bit worried that the inside of the hub would be coated in this moose, but draining the oil showed it was ok.

Fitting the new boot was a fiddle.  as i pushed one side in the other came out.  Ended up cutting a 10cm section of 4″ pipe and using that, with a hammer to push it in

oil drained fine
oil drained fine

 

 

10cm, 4""x3mm pipe
10cm, 4″”x3mm pipe
Sliding the carrier back in
Sliding the carrier back in

It proved not to want to go back in.  problem was that the splines in the half shaft did not quite line up in the diff.  quick fiddle with the diff flange and straight in.

The book said to put some sealant in this joint but there was non in there  before so I have not.  time will tell

bolts tightened up to 110nm

oil filled up, done.  Make sure the shaft end of the  boot is a nice fit in the joint.  I had 2 goes

image (2200)

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Superwinch H14W

I managed to buy a full Hydraulic Superwinch H14W solution second hand from a utilities Landrover Defender.

I’ve started to refurbish it

Undo the tie bars and turn on its end.  Then the non drive bit just pulls off
Undo the tie bars and turn on its end. Then the non drive bit just pulls off

 

Pry bar goes in and removes the seal.  More plastic than rubber
Pry bar goes in and removes the seal. More plastic than rubber

For some reason the outside seal has a 1.5″ gap in it.  I have ordered new ones for both sides

If you turn the dog sideways you can pull it out
If you turn the dog sideways you can pull it out
Just like that.  In the picture you can see what looks like a grub screw in the fork.  It's not it's a sprung bar and you can drift it out.  Once done put a pry bar on the handle and pull out.  the black plug on the opposite side of the handle is just that and needs to be pushed out when the handle is out from the opposite side.  You can't use it to push the handle out
Just like that. In the picture you can see what looks like a grub screw in the fork. It’s not it’s a sprung bar and you can drift it out. Once done put a pry bar on the handle and pull out. the black plug on the opposite side of the handle is just that and needs to be pushed out when the handle is out from the opposite side. You can’t use it to push the handle out
Needed to use boiling water to soften the new v seals up
Needed to use boiling water to soften the new v seals up
2 new v seals installed either side  of the winch
2 new v seals installed either side of the winch
cleaned off the pressure relief valve and installed the brakes
cleaned off the pressure relief valve and installed the brakes
installed the drum.  then the spacer and c clip
installed the drum. then the spacer and c clip

getting the top on the winch was a faf.  the sprocket kept falling out.  tip.  use the engage/free lever to pin the sprocket in the place you want and hold it tight as you install.  also got a new tie bar.  the hause will be going off to be anodised.
getting the top on the winch was a faf. the sprocket kept falling out. tip. use the engage/free lever to pin the sprocket in the place you want and hold it tight as you install. also got a new tie bar. the hause will be going off to be anodised.
(1924)

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Chassis restoration

I did a bit of cleaning and priming with the cab on but now I have the measure of it it’s time for the cab to come off to finish and have a go at the engine mounts

Crane makes it a one man job
Crane makes it a one man job
access to the chassis
access to the chassis
Floating chassis
Floating chassis

 

Chassis so light now it floats

 

Eastwood chassis black applied
Eastwood chassis black applied

 

Omg milestone moment.  I have started the rebuild.  Bumps tops on.  Major event.  Very pleased
Omg milestone moment. I have started the rebuild. Bump stops on. Major event. Very pleased
(848)

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Tgb13 steering column

I want to remove the switches for lights etc from the dashboard so have bought a modern steering column with stalk switches.  Now got to fit it.

brand new seats go in and the column lined up

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then made brackets for the column – might need to support the brackets

 

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Had to make a new floor access too match the column

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Decided that the bracket needed attaching to the floor plate, should give the column strength.  But it needs to be removable.

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Column now has some 3mm plate overlapping the tunnel.  2 m10 bolts tapped into the tunnel.  no wobble at all now.

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next to find a way to join the steering column to the steering box.  I found a g wagon steering shaft.

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a quick cut and polish and the uj is off.

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cut the uj  of the steering column and some slits

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just needs welding up now.  shame the welder has packed up.  It’s still under warranty though so has gone back to the supplier.

  (1092)

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Power Steering 3

Hooray, the steering shaft is back.

many thanks to Martin Lilwall and his mate Reg who converted this

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Into this and cut the bracket.

 

I can get on and work out how the steering box and column will work.

Assembled it today and it fits.  Sort of.  The shaft fits fine but it sticks into the cab too much.  I was expecting this from other installs so will now be sourcing a 2″ body lift kit

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Temp 2″ lift.  Thanks to some 2×4 I had

temp 2"lift

now thats better.  might add another 0.5″ but will wait to see how the steering colum looks.

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I could really do with a pic of an original steering box to drop arm connection showing how far the steering box sticks out the clamp.  Anyone help?

Made some spacers from a 50mm Nylon 6 rod and  created my own kit.

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Then popped them on,  perfect

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Finished

image (3834)

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Volvo c304